‘Cops and Robbers’: 1920s Gangsters and Police.

I ordered the 20mm Gangsters from CP Models clicky to use ostensibly as IRA men for the Troubles in Ireland as the clothes a re from the right era and the IRA did take delivery of a few Thompson SMGs (although they were mainly used in the subsequent Irish civil war). I figured if I was buying the Gangsters it would be silly not to get a few packs of the police too; if only for a few knock about ‘pulp’ scenarios when we don’t want a ‘serious’ war game (I know their crime activities are no fun for those unfortunate ones who are caught up in them but it is at a different level to indutrialised total war).

I recently got some paint of them so here they are:

cp 20s gangsters 1

cp 20s gangsters 2

cp 20s gangsters 3

cp 20s gangsters 4

cp 20s police

It is slightly annoying that the camera shows up errors like mould lines you’ve neglected to clean up isn’t it…? Too late now though… I can live with it.

 

Cheers,

 

Pete.

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26 comments on “‘Cops and Robbers’: 1920s Gangsters and Police.

  1. Nice work Pete. The camera is a cruel master that annoys us all! Take comfort from knowing you are not alone on that one.

  2. redcaer1690 says:

    They look superb! So characterful! There must be a James Cagny character in their somewhere! Great post!

  3. Those are nice figures! They’ve painted up we’ll – I always struggle with colour choice for civilians or paramilitaries, but you’ve got these spot on!

    • Pete S/ SP says:

      Thanks- I tend to organise my figures like that in a grid and paint the jackets or trousers in a row or column in a single colour before moving on to the next colour if that makes sense. It allows you to get a mix of colours on the figures with out having to paint each one individually.

      Cheers,

      Pete.

  4. Marvin says:

    Great figs, nicely painted! Lots of good poses too.

    In terms of IRA, I wonder if the police could also be painted as 1920s ‘Black and Tans’? WIki says that “new recruits were issued with khaki army uniforms (usually only trousers) and dark green RIC or blue British police surplus tunics, caps and belts.”

    • Pete S/ SP says:

      Thanks Marvin, they are lovely sculpts. I wish there were more figures in the range.

      I hadn’t thought of painting any as Black and Tans (it would be easy to convert the hat) mainly as I’ve got loads of them already from RH Model. That said it would be nice to have a few with pistol to add into the mix. Great suggestion.

      Cheers,

      Pete.

  5. These are cool mate. Nice sculpts and nice paintwork too. I like the dude with the flat cap as I too like to don a flat cap.

  6. Look great Pete – CP models do make nice stuff that’s for sure!

  7. Azazel says:

    Those have turned out pretty cool!

  8. Faust says:

    Nice minis and I like those paint colors. Fightin in the muddy streets!

    Mould lines, man. I scraped and trimmed some minis, primed them, and after the first coat of paint….saw what I had missed! So dumb.

    • Pete S/ SP says:

      Thanks. That sort of muddy base is my default. I figure a muddy brown looks ok everywhere. As much as a nice verdant dio base looks pretty it does jar a bit to my eye when you use it in a city fight….

      I think that a light coat of primer is useful for showing up where you need more work. I find it hard to make out some details in plastic or metal until they are primed.

      Cheers,

      Pete.

      • Faust says:

        I’ve been priming in grey lately, as it’s nicely middle of the road. Unfortunately, it’s almost an exact match for the color of the plastic. I have to really pay attention to make sure I’ve covered the whole model in primer.

        A post-priming wash is also helpful for brining out the details. I wanted to jump right in on this last mini, and forgot to do that. Probably would have highlighted the mould lines right away.

      • Pete S/ SP says:

        I usually go for grey for that reason. That said for 28mm figures I’ve recently been following a friends advice and going for a black undercoat drybrushed with white. Instant shading and pops the detail out so you can see it clearly too. I’ve tried undercoating white then giving a black wash too, that works well with 20mm figures.

        Cheers,

        Pete.

      • Faust says:

        Hmmm, that is an interesting approach. I tried zenithal priming with my airbrush once, thinking “How much time this will save!”. But it didn’t seem to make much difference. Or maybe I’m just not noticing it as much as I thought I would. I was priming in all white for quite awhile, but now it’s grey for me. When I get around to other minis, I’ll have to try out some of these other base coat methods though.

  9. These are Outstanding work my friend so cool:) Wish you lived near by I have a lot of 20s police and gang men a lot of cars trucks. We could set up a real nice Big game. I’m hoping to get some 20s tanks a such to do some 1920s warfare of some kind:)
    Sorry I have not been on in a while I had a Stroke in my left eye and it’s taking a lot out of me for reading and such:(
    Take care Keep up the Great Post my friend!
    Dave
    across the Big Pond.

    • Pete S/ SP says:

      Thanks Dave. I’m looking forward to getting some Gangster Wars gaming in. Been watching some good documentaries on PBS (it shows US docs on British TV) on them recently to get some ideas for a campaing.

      Really sorry to hear about your eye. Sounds reallyawful. I wish you a speedy and painless recovery.

      Cheers,

      Pete.

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